-a sketch of what is supposedly a seal on a Dutch tomb, St Francis Church
I visited two historical churches in Kochi, St Francis Church and the Santa Cruz Basilica.
St Francis Church is known for being the initial resting place of Vasco da Gama, the Portuguese explorer, who, apart from starting the trend of colonization in India, brought Catholic denominations to the subcontinent. Being established in Kochi, Kozhikode and other towns along the coast, the Portuguese church spread, and St Francis Church was one of the churches built here. However, the remains of Vasco da Gama were transported to Portugal, but the tomb itself stays inside the church.
Santa Cruz Basilica is a larger church, with similar colonial heritage. This church is more heavily decorated, with paintings from Jesus' life and crucifixion adorning the ceiling, and rich curtains and elegant woodwork garnishing the altar.
These Churches represent the Christian tradition brought over by the West, with Catholic, and later Anglican churches being built, rebuilt, demolished, and reconstructed. The colonial legacy of shifting alliances, opposing Christian faiths as well as the relative importance of Kochi as a trade and military hub is demonstrated.
Another surprising thing I learned during my research is that Christian communities along the coast were known as able warriors and fine gunmen. They were recruited in the armies of local rulers and played a role in various conflicts within Kerala. They also entered into alliances with the Portuguese in order to counteract and fight against other communities and kingdoms in the region. These communities demonstrate the variety of experiences and roles communities played in medieval, war-ridden South India.
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